About Durham
The county of Durham lies in the north east corner of England in between Tyne & Wear and North Yorkshire. In the past it was well known as an industrial area especially for coal mining but nowadays light industry is to be found around the main transport corridors and tourism is being developed based around the City of Durham, with both the Cathedral and Castle listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Getting to Durham
The nearest airport is Newcastle International about 26 miles (42 kms) away but there are excellent rail links on the East Coast mainline and road connections with the A1(M) passing within 5 miles (8 kms) of the city. The approach to Durham rail station from the south gives spectacular views over the city and cathedral.
I drove down from Glasgow and was staying on the farm where I was brought up (although now it is a livery stable and holiday accommodation) about 12 miles (19 kms) from Durham City and on the Durham Heritage coast.
Weekend accommodation
The nearest village is Hawthorn with a traditional pub and an excellent place to start the coastal walks. The Heritage Coast is an 11 mile (18 km) walking route from Seaham to Crimdon taking in 400 year old woodland, a wide variey of wildlife and Hawthorn Dean which is the second largest in the country.
Seaham Harbour is just over 5 miles (8 kms) north with a long pebble and shingle beach. A good place to go for an exhilerating walk espacially when the wind is blowing in from the North sea. You can also collect sea glass and explore the caves.
A visit to the Hawthorn village pub in the evening, the Stapylton Arms, for some drinks and a meal.
The next day was a trip into Durham City where very little had changed in the last few years. The main attractions will always be the Catherdral, Castle and University.
Durham Cathedral
When arriving by car, there are 3 multi story car parks close to the city centre but they are usually very busy at weekends. There are also 3 Park and Ride parks on the main routes into town. The city centre has very narrow streets and pedestrianisation over Framwellgate bridge and Silver street.
The Cathedral and Castle are next to the Palace Green, both excellent examples of Norman architecture. More recently, the Cathedral has been used for exterior and interior scenes in the ‘Harry Potter’ films. The University library is next to the Castle entrance and the colleges are to be found along the North Bailey just outside the Green. The University has expanded now over the river and out to the southside of the city where there is more room for growth.
Back into Sadler Street and you will find The Cellar Door (41 Sadler Street), an excellent restaurant for lunch or dinner. You walk down from the street into the dining room, or if the weather is warm, out onto the terrace overlooking the river. Lunch menus are varied and 2/3 courses for £15/£18 (17€/20€) Dinner menus are A la Carte, with mains typically £21 (24€).
Two pubs are worth a visit, The Shakespeare (63 Sadler Street). A small traditional pub but with 3 separate areas (including a gin bar). A nice pint and pub food available, understandably it can be busy with students.
The Half Moon Inn (86 New Elvet) is just over the Elvet bridge. Another traditional pub in a Grade 2 listed building. There is an outside area looking over the river and the drink prices are very reasonable. I had my first pint of Draught Bass there when I was studying at Durham. Absolutely unforgettable!
Some 9 miles (14 kms) north of Durham is the Beamish (Living museum of the North). A fantastic place to bring your kids, they will be occupied all day.
Beamish Museum
The entrance fee of £20 (22€), includes a yearly pass so you can visit as many times as you would like. Among the attractions are steam trains, trams and reconstructed Victorian shops and houses (Try the original chip shop!). Volunteers are dressed in period costume and have a wealth of knowledge about the industry and day to day life in the 1930s and 1940s. There are also special events featured throughout the year, so it is advisable to check before you visit if there is something of interest.
My weekend in Durham was literally like going home and catching up but the area is well worth visiting and discovering one of the lesser known parts of Britain.